26.09.1995
I spoke with Valera in late September'95 when he was back from France.
L.D. Valera, how do you feel after 2.5 months in Shamonix?
V.B. Good. I did about all I wanted to do: East face of Grande Capucin - the combination of routes: start on direct route and the end by Bonatti. It is ED. I spended 2,5 days.
A long time I dreamed about Mt. Petit Dru. This is one of the most beautifull and interesting peaks I saw anywhere. I got first solo climbing on West face on American diretissima route - ED3. It took me 7 days.
I think this route was very import ant for my personal experience. There were difficult points I could test myself. This is rocky route and its main part consists of "leaving" stones, you can never know if the stone OK or no and many carnises. Immensely expressions! But comparing Petit Dru with another routes I can say that in |