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Валерий Бабанов

  Валерий Бабанов закончил Французскую школу гидов ENSA в Шамони.
  На сегодняшний день является единственным представителем из России, имеющим международный диплом Профессионального Гида UIAGM.
  С осени 2002 года входит в международную ассоциацию горных гидов.

Подробнее читайте в разделе «ГИД»...  


Предлагаемые услуги:

  • восхождения на вершины любой сложности и любой высоты;
  • организация и проведение экспедиций в Гималаи, Каракарум и другие горные районы;
  • ледолазание;
  • скалолазание;
  • горные лыжи;
  • каньонинг (спуск по водопадам).

Опыт работы гидом свыше 15 лет.


Карта сайта: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

 

Valeri Babanov & Mark Toth, May 5, 2005, Mt.Sir Douglas.NE face.

07.05.2005

FA (?): Valeri Babanov & Mark Toth, May 5, 2005

 

This excellent and obvious moderate alpine route is situated on the NE face of the Mount Sir Douglas in Kananaskis Country.

Possible this is a first ascent. 

 

IV M5 400m

 

We believe this to be a new route although we have seen one fixed rappel point on the fourth pitch. But it was far to the right and we supposed this belay station was not for climbing up just for rappel.

I found no information on this route having been climbed. If we have claimed this ascent as FA in error, please let us know!

This excellent and obvious moderate alpine route is situated on the NE face of the Mount Sir Douglas in Kananaskis Country.

We made approach as for the East Ridge of the Mt. Sir Douglas. Then, we got a big traverse (350m) right and reached the beginning of the route. I guess it would be easy and shorter scramble up from the glacier. But you have to be cautious with a huge lower snow slope (avalanche). Maybe for this reason we made so big traverse just under the NE face. The snow condition was really bad.

The route follows straight up on obvious snow-ice gully with some mixed steps. The crux pitches are fourth (M4+) and fifth (M5). It is a chimney-corner about 70 meters length of the compact limestone with a poor protection. Then it is more moderate climbing up until the ridge, where our route joins with Mt. Sir Douglas East Ridge route.

It is really surprising if this route had not been climbed before.

The easiest and fastest descent to the gully on the left of the East Ridge. Beware – this choice of the way of rappelling is exposed to rockfall and it is not recommended in summer or warm spring and fall season.

A mixed rack of a cams, pins and screws (1-2) will suffice.

We took 19 hours car-to-car.


Mount Sir Douglas.NE face. It`s possible a new line (?).
Mount Sir Douglas.NE face. It`s possible a new line (?).
 
Magic of the Canadian Rockies
Magic of the Canadian Rockies
 
Long approach to Mount Sir Douglas
Long approach to Mount Sir Douglas

Mt.Sir Douglas. NE face
Mt.Sir Douglas. NE face
 
The obvious line in the middle of the NE face is our route.
The obvious line in the middle of the NE face is our route.
 
Snow ridge leading from the pass to the Mt.Sir Douglas East Ridge.
Snow ridge leading from the pass to the Mt.Sir Douglas East Ridge.

Mark climb in chimney crux pitch
Mark climb in chimney crux pitch
 
Climbing is fun !
Climbing is fun !
 
Exit from chimney crux pitch
Exit from chimney crux pitch

Mark Toth on the summit ridge of Mt.Sir Douglas.
Mark Toth on the summit ridge of Mt.Sir Douglas.
 
Valeri Babanov on the summit ridge of Mt.Sir Douglas.
Valeri Babanov on the summit ridge of Mt.Sir Douglas.
 
Canadian Rockies. View from the Mt.Sir Douglas on SEast side
Canadian Rockies. View from the Mt.Sir Douglas on SEast side

View from the Mt.Sir Douglas on North-East side.
View from the Mt.Sir Douglas on North-East side.
 
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